Leveling Tables

[Dave Anscombe]

I'm sure many people who play bar Billiards have this matter close to their hearts, "How to level a table".
I say this because I have come across many ways and ideas in over 35 years in the game. Some people use a level, others level by roll to the pockets or just level by making sure the break works. There must be other ways.
Some say iron before leveling while others say iron after leveling.
I know many people brush a table before a match. But when should this be done? Immediately before or hours before?
I feel it would be fascinating to find out how different people from different areas level a table and if there is a common way. You never know we might learn something from each other! ;) ;)

[Chris_Sav]

The ONLY way to level ANY table is with an engineers level.

Anyone who says you cannot level a table with an engineers level does not know what they are talking ablout, and there are a few!!

You can level an easy flat slate with rolling balls. Few slates are truly flat. 50% of Jelks tables sag front to back. Some sag across the slate. Tables 'levelled' by rolling balls often corkscrew one way at the front and the other at the back.

You must find out what you are up against when you level the table.

If it sags longitudinally put a couple of 2ps under the slate by the fifty hole by loosening the side cushions.

Slate is NOT fully rigid and will flex depending on which legs are raised. Using a level, get the slate roughly flat so that the weight is evenly on all four legs, let it settle for 15 mins and then fine tune with the level.

Then and ONLY then roll a few balls to see if you have missed anything. Always try and get the front half level and sacrifice the rear half if difficult. If it sags across the slate set it a bit uphill.

Regarding brushing - use one with proper bristles, that pull the nap, not slide over it.

Iron - good and hot, but increase temperature slowly until you are confident the cloth will take it.

Decent size bulb to illuminate and warm the cloth, get it on early.

Do your preparations and then practice.

Sav

[Dave Anscombe]

Thanks Sav for that. I have tried a similar way myself but not with an engineers level. I have tried once with a laser level but things did not work out properly.
One way I was told was to level across the back in front of the back holes, then level at the front across the red spot. Then taking a level up and down the table in line with the D, red spot and black spot, turn the front legs evenly so that the front is raised and the bubble in the level is approx half out of true in favour of the front end of the table. (I hope you understand that ;)). This way the break should be approx half ball. I have never tried this so I don't know if it works. Somebody out there may have tried something similar. My usual way of doing it is to roll to the pockets and make sure the break is easy to get, (You can upset a lot of players if they play on an unfamiliar table and the break is hard or nearly impossible to get), this is usually good enough for the level I regularly play at. I'm sure other people have other ideas. :) :)

Well, to be fair to the Colemanator, he did start a thread on this same board entitled :
"How to set up a straight table"

chimp said:

Starting from scratch, I'll open the leg adjusters so that the gap is the thicness of my thumb, about 25mm, theres nothing worse than going to a venue where the table is sus and you look at the adjusters and the're screwed right in. secondly, I'll play across the table to determine the uphill/ downhill situation and alter accordingly, I'll then move on to the front and play down to sort the left/right rolls, The break is the LAST shot I'll try.
Another good one to try is play a ball off the front spot toward the left 50, there' nothing worse than a table where the red drifts in one your one up shot :'(

And before I receive any sarcy comments about unlevel Barton Seagrave tables etc :D, Our table has been the highest scoring for home and away teams for many years :D even this year when we moved venue and have struggled with what I consider to be a difficult playing top >:(, even though it's the same top as we've had for years. ;D :D

What Sav says as well of course.
As to the extent of TLC that should be lavished on a table, I'd make the following points:
1. Tables vary with atmospheric conditions more than you'd realise, so try not to a) overheat one side or b) underheat the back (such as by having it backing onto a draughty window.
2. Keep the balls regularly cleaned.
3. Don't allow chalk deposits to build up near the D and break position.
4. Prepare in this order: brush; iron; block.