Bar Billiards table restoration

[garym]

Hello All,
I am a new member, and have recently acquired a Bar Billiards table for restoration. When completed, it is planned for it  go into the local village social club.
I have attached some photos and I would greatly appreciate comments and information.
There is no maker's name but the working timer is stamped - NEW HODD N 311, Made in England and Pat. No. 709182.
After cleaning and oiling the timer works but appears to be missing the bar to push down the board at the end of each game.
There appears to be a support bar missing from one side, which holds the bed when raised. There also appears to be a missing cross bar which would lay underneath the bed.
If anyone can tell me who the maker might have been it'd much appreciated.
Also I'd like to know which pieces are missing and where I might find replacements.

Many Thanks.

[garym]

I will post more photos in due course.
The table playing area measures 6' x 2' 6''
The table top measures 6' 4'' x 2' 11''.
Gary

[garym]

Mechanism - missing 'bar'?

[garym]

one more

[Chris_Sav]

Hi and welcome,

One thing at a time,

The bar release mechanism appears to be there but it is in the wrong position,

It's the lever lying along the main springs and the flap should be pointing across the clock so that it gets pushed by the travelling bar and releases the bar latch. Be careful in moving it and don't force it, I would guess you will need to take off the screw by the one securing the spring in the corner.

I'll take a picture of another clock

Sav

[Chris_Sav]

As attached

[Chris_Sav]

It's a Sams table of what we call the 'Narrow' variety. All AEBBA affilated league table are of the standard width, 32" across the playing surface.  These narrower tables are primarily used for league play in the four pin leagues in East Anglia.

The wooden bar across the table with the dovetail joints on the end is just a bit of bracing and not essential, The missing second slate support is also not essential provided you don't leave the slate supported by the remaining one for long periods. Both are easily replaced.

Sav

Jan 2, 2013 14:11:08 GMT garym said:

I have attached some photos and I would greatly appreciate comments and information.

Looks like the Strathaven (S.Lanarkshire) table on eBay which we commented was in desperate need of a re-cloth.
If so, well done in 'rescuing' it from across the border - in the face of stern resistance in the shape of 21 bids ! 8-)

[garym]

Many thanks for the helpful and informative information.
As suggested I've moved the bar in the mechanism and it now pushes the ball-blocking board in the correct manner. The board dosen't lift when the timer mechanism is pulled into play position.
I'm reluctant to start experimenting, so if anyone has suggestions, I'd be very interested and grateful.
It's interesting to know that my table has been recognised by fellow members as 'the Strathaven'!
How do people recognise it as a Sams table? I thought it might be, judging by the shape of the legs which appeared the same as a Sams on Google images.
Regards, Gary

[Chris_Sav]

The flat lever that you have moved should have a small vertical latch pointing down, near the pivot end, that limits the amount it can move when pulled by the spring. These are sometimes snapped off.

The flat lever which you have moved does all the work, it should be free enough to move, held by the smaller spring so the small vertical latch on it is against the pull-handle bar. The ninety degree vertical cocking lever top end is held by the latch so that the back of the wooden bar is pushed down, forcing the front up for normal play

As the clock ticks down and the travelling bar moves towards the flat lever, it eventually presses the back of the flat lever which moves the latch away from the pull-handle bar so that the ninety degree cocking lever is released and the bar drops.

When the pull-handle is pulled again the flat lever latch travels past the vertical ninety degree angle  cocking lever. The latch is held off the pull-handle bar by the travelling (clock) bar still pressing on the flat lever. When the pull-handle is pushed back in, the travelling bar remains in position cocked to drive the clock. The release lever is then freed so that the vertical latch rests against the pull-handle bar once again. This catches the ninety degree vertical cocking lever  which pushes the back of the wooden bar down to release the balls.

Clear as mud??

You have now met probably the only remaining authorities on bar billiard tables and we monitor Ebay very closely!!

Good luck with your restoration and please read the section on recovering before you attempt it.

Sav

[garym]

Many thanks for the invaluable information. As clear as mud when I first read it BUT, with application, I've got it all working. I keep setting it going, just for the thrill. But it has irritated my daughter!
I will read the relevant info. regarding recovering. I have done an old victorian bagatelle table and a quarter sized snooker table. I had to restart the process several times as I was learning as I went.
Regards, Gary

[Chris_Sav]

Glad to have helped. I would think it pretty likely the rubber in the cushions is perished, don't be afraid to replace it, it's quite easy. Don't use cheap cloth either.

Sav.

[garym]

Hi Everybody
I,ve just started the recovering and have removed the rubber cushions. These are about 1/2 inch wide and triangular in profile. Is this still available? And if not, what type of replacement do people advise.
,ve looked a a couple of sites but haven't found anything comparable and I don't want to waste money on usuitable stuff.
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Gary

[Chris_Sav]

www.mastersgames.com/cat/billiards/billiard-table-cushion-rubber.htm

The 12mm by 13mm stuff. This is the standard rubber used on tables now. I have not tried their adhesive as I normally use standard impact adhesive.

I use a narrower tape to protect the top of the cushion frpm being leant on, but do not use cheap gaffa tape as it falls apart after a few months. I use Tesa Tape 4651- 38mm but I don't know if you can get it in small rolls.

sav  

[garym]

Thanks for the advice. I had decided to use gaffer tape for the cushions but have ordered a roll of the correct stuff. Cheers!!
Gary