Moths in baize, repair questions

[jesse]

My table (Sam's narrow) sat unused for a couple months, and when I pulled the cover off to play, noticed that moth larvae had eaten the baize on the playfield and were even worse in the lower ball return/runners.

I'll clearly need to recover, but I've never done this before and want to make sure everything is done as well as possible.  I've contacted a local billiards service company and talked with them.  I'm in the states, and they've never worked on, (or even seen, for that matter) a bar billiards table. So now I'm wondering if I should just attempt to do everything myself instead of having them potentially ruin something. As I decide whether to attempt the job myself, I've scoured these forums, and have realized how little I know, and would appreciate any tips or info regarding these questions. Apologies for the long and rambling post.

1) while recovering, what other precautions would you take to prevent the moths returning? I'm worried their eggs will be embedded in areas outside of the baize. I've thought about removing the infested baize, vacuuming multiple times, and taking the table outside and spraying insecticide everywhere.

2) Do the ball return runners come out easily? I read in another thread that someone with moth issues replaced the cloth in there with strips of adhesive backed synthetic baize.  I'm assuming this was done without removing the wooden runners, which are nailed into the bottom board? I'm worried my return area is a single piece of cloth with the wood runners nailed over it, making it near impossible to remove all of the baize without also removing the wooden tracks.

3) I've read a few posts about gently tapping the red cups out before removing the plaster, but my game has wooden rings on all but 1 of the cups.  Should these wooden rings be pried off prior to cup removal?  What direction are you tapping the cups? hitting them from the baize side/top so they come up from below the slate, or hitting from below and removing from the top? I'm assuming you hit them from below, but just want to be sure.

4) does anyone have an extra wooden ring they'd be willing to sell and ship? I've just used wall repair paste to hold the cup that was missing the wood ring.  I guess I may not need to replace the missing ring if the paste proves to be easier to deal with than the wooden rings.

I appreciate any information shared.

-Jesse

[alanturner]

Sept 17, 2022 16:43:33 GMT jesse said:

My table (Sam's narrow) sat unused for a couple months, and when I pulled the cover off to play, noticed that moth larvae had eaten the baize on the playfield and were even worse in the lower ball return/runners.

I'll clearly need to recover, but I've never done this before and want to make sure everything is done as well as possible.  I've contacted a local billiards service company and talked with them.  I'm in the states, and they've never worked on, (or even seen, for that matter) a bar billiards table. So now I'm wondering if I should just attempt to do everything myself instead of having them potentially ruin something. As I decide whether to attempt the job myself, I've scoured these forums, and have realized how little I know, and would appreciate any tips or info regarding these questions. Apologies for the long and rambling post.

1) while recovering, what other precautions would you take to prevent the moths returning? I'm worried their eggs will be embedded in areas outside of the baize. I've thought about removing the infested baize, vacuuming multiple times, and taking the table outside and spraying insecticide everywhere.

2) Do the ball return runners come out easily? I read in another thread that someone with moth issues replaced the cloth in there with strips of adhesive backed synthetic baize.  I'm assuming this was done without removing the wooden runners, which are nailed into the bottom board? I'm worried my return area is a single piece of cloth with the wood runners nailed over it, making it near impossible to remove all of the baize without also removing the wooden tracks.

3) I've read a few posts about gently tapping the red cups out before removing the plaster, but my game has wooden rings on all but 1 of the cups.  Should these wooden rings be pried off prior to cup removal?  What direction are you tapping the cups? hitting them from the baize side/top so they come up from below the slate, or hitting from below and removing from the top? I'm assuming you hit them from below, but just want to be sure.

4) does anyone have an extra wooden ring they'd be willing to sell and ship? I've just used wall repair paste to hold the cup that was missing the wood ring.  I guess I may not need to replace the missing ring if the paste proves to be easier to deal with than the wooden rings.

I appreciate any information shared.

-Jesse

THIS IS A GENERAL GUIDE , SOMETHINGS MAY VARY TO SUIT TABLE TYPE !!
Item 1 Removal of cushions ,old cloth , drop rings etc

Unscrew the cushions from outside edge of table top frame

Separate slate/frame from baulk frame

Remove slate bed on its frame from top frame and support it on bench or trestles/timbers

Work from the top face

Using a section of wood (short pieces of brush stale is good) gently and evenly tap the drop rings out

Do not do this from the underside of the table (the slate face will splinter)

Remove all of the tacks/staples around the edges and cloth should now pull off ( unless some idiot has glued it )

Very lightly clean inside of holes with a fine flap wheel , check slate surface for lumps and bumps

If the hole edges have any bad slate break away repair with caulk filler or similar , be careful when sanding as slate is very soft and hollows can be easily created.

( Remove rexine or leatherette from baulk frame and front rail ( retain coin slot ) If you are replacing it ) Just recover with new .

Lightly sand all over

Item 2 Cushions

Strip old baize and rubbers

i usually then go over them with a mouse sander lightly

Glue on your new rubber (contact adhesive) , slightly over length , at ends i usually knock a panel pin in just to hold it and stop it from curling off , i use a 50mm panel pin , knocked in just enough to hold the rubber , it is then easy to remove when glue has set.

When glue has set carefully pull out the panel pin and trip the rubber with a sharp stanley type knife (spit on the blade first)

Cut the cushion covers usually 100-110mm , cut them 100mm over length'

Position the cloth half way down the back of the wood starting at middle staple it every 40mm 'ish', working from centre to each end.

Keeping the cloth tight but not stretched

I use a Tacwise 140 electric stapler ( £29.99 Screwfix) 10 x 10 heavy staples

Starting again at the middle wrap the cloth over the top , over the rubber and pull tight up the back and staple continue as previously from centre to ends , try to keep it uniform and tight .

Now fold over the ends suitably , staple and trim away excess of cloth , you can cut it to suit and fold , just play it by ear and be patient .

Dont f*** it up now !

Item 3 Table Recloth

Set your slate up on something like 75mm blocks , so you have good access to the sides and ends

Make sure the slate is clean and smooth , no bumps and lumps , wipe it over with clean rag/cloth.

Lay new cloth on table , making sure that any nap runs up the table , then start on one side middle point overlap side by 40-50mm

Now staple cloth , again 40mm 'ish' spaces from centre to ends of table , keeping the cloth tight but not overly stretched .

Now go to other side of the table and again at the centre STRETCH the cloth across the table as tight as you can (till your fingers hurt)

And staple , continue STRETCHING and stapling to each end from the centre

Now do exactly the same at both ends , fold over the corners and staple , trim 2nd side and ends .

Take you time ! Cloth is now on , Well done .

Now get the top off a spray can 60mm 'ish' dia.(or similar) Drill a hole in the centre of it (8-10mm dia.)

Make sure the spray can top is clean , position it over the top central hole , you will be able to feel when it is on the edges of the hole , now mark the centre of the hole with a pencil ............now mark the other 8 holes the same

Next you need a sharp bladed Stanley knife or similar as long as its sharp and a decent pair of sharp scissors

Get your drop rings to hand , if you are using your old ones , fit will be fine , if you are using new ones make sure they are the same diameter as the old ones .

Now have a Double Brandy or Whisky !!!!

Start at the centre hole top cut the cloth with the Stanley knife , just push the point of the blade through the centre mark for 22mm from centre towards edge in 4 opposing directions , you should now have a 44 x 44 cut cross in the cloth , take the scissors and now cut another 22mm cut in between the first 4 cuts .

Next take one of your drop rings and press it by hand evenly into the hole , pushing right in to table top level .

Congratulations you done one

Now do the 20 holes , one at a time , then the outer holes , next do the 100 , then the 200 , then each 50 in turn . !!!

Check that none of the rings are above table face level , tap in ring with a piece of wood and light mallet/hammer ( i use a cut off piece of brush handle) Take Care !

Turn slate over , carefully , put a blanket or similar under it to protect the new cloth . Now fill the back of the rings with filler , i use flexible decorators caulk,( Just smooth it round with your finger .Leave it to semi set , then turn table back over and recheck that the rings arn't protruding

Now leave it for 24hours to let the filler set .

Sorted , Well Done !!!

[jesse]

Thank you. That’s very helpful.

When tapping the rings out, do any specials considerations need to be made regarding the wooden rings underneath the slate? Should they be pried off before tapping the rings out?
Also, when reinstalling the rings, is it better to use a filler/ caulk to retain them, instead of re-using the wooden rings?

[alanturner]

Sept 24, 2022 16:37:20 GMT jesse said:

Thank you. That’s very helpful.

When tapping the rings out, do any specials considerations need to be made regarding the wooden rings underneath the slate?

Not usually wood ..... compressed cardboard tube  or a compersite ........... if they will tap out it may be an advantage .....some have little tacks holding them in !!!! DO NOT TAP OUT FROM REVERSE SIDE , IT WILL BREAK THE SLATE AWAY AROUNDTHE EDGES OF THE HOLE !


Should they be pried off before tapping the rings out? 

If you can , Yes 


Also, when reinstalling the rings, is it better to use a filler/ caulk to retain them, instead of re-using the wooden rings?

I just use caulk/filler , it hold well but is easy to remove at a future date . I just squeeze it all round from the gun smooth it with finger , then when its dry i paint them  black .